Hanami

There is an interesting cultural phenomena in Japan that I have become a big fan of "Hanami'". "Hana" is flower, and "mi" is viewing. So the tradition is best named "flower viewing" in English. The name doesn't come close to describing what Hanami really is. Furthermore, it isn't just any old flower that people go to see. When people are describing Hanami, they mean specifically Sakura (Cherry Blossoms), pink blossoms that grow on cherry trees that have been bred for thousands of years to produce beautiful flowers rather than delicious cherries (sadly, no fruit is produced from these trees). It is certainly one of the most revered and celebrated festival seasons in Japan. The flowers bloom in early April and within two weeks have fallen from the trees. A symbol of the start of spring and the beauty and impermanent qualities of life, Sakura is a powerful and ubiquitous icon in Japan. For thousands of years, people have went on outings to sit under the cherry trees with friends and families and contemplate the grandness of Sakura. Sounds idyllic and in tune with the Japanese/Zen stereotypes of being close to nature, simple living, and deep symbolic significance doesn't it?

In the short Hanami season, I went to a few of these festivals. Let me put this tradition in a modern, contemporary context. At any place where you find large groups gathered in Japan: festivals, urban areas, train stations, famous temples and shrines, ect..., there will likely be people selling all manner of strange foods from small stalls and portable tables. Grilled Squid, Batter-fried Octopus balls, seaweed wrapped rice balls, raw horse meat, whale meat, various unidentifiable small fish, and a variety of odd local traditional foods can be found in just about any public place. In addition, Japanese people are great consumers of alcohol. Hanami is seen as a great time to get smashed outside. Combine the presence of weird foods (even some of my Japanese friends have remarked on the strangeness of festival foods) and heavy drinking and you have the expected: people vomiting..... a lot. Also, all manner of street performers, musicians, souvenir sellers, and old people in very traditional clothing will come to join the party.

As you can imagine, Hanami is a crazy scene. It is the only place I have ever seen a 90 year old woman in a kimono, a 26 year old woman in punk style leather and ripped jeans, and a drunk middle age man in a business suit looking at flowers and deciding which 1 of thousands of blossoms on a particular tree is more beautiful. Hanami is also the only place I have ever seen a performing monkey. While this is a popular cliché, a monkey doing tricks in some foreign and exotic city, I have traveled a lot and never seen one, until now.

Though Hanami is an example of an old Japanese tradition that has evidently been transformed in the process of Japan's modernization. I have to admit that I am a big fan. To be honest, most people that go to Hanami don't even look at the flowers. For most, it is an excuse to have a big party outside to usher in spring. People have been inside all winter and want to get out and socialize. I like the flowers and enjoy the great variety of people that can be found at a Hanami, the people watching is excellent. I like to see what kind of people will show up, what they will be doing, selling, cooking, drinking, ect... And one more thing, I love Grilled Octopus! Check out these pictures from the Hanami in Nishi Park, Fukuoka.